If you happen to
be visiting the capital city of Yangon then the must see site you have to visit
is the majestic Shwedagon Pagoda. No
other site can symbolize the Myanmar culture and identity than this 2,500 year
old monument. Situated just west of the
Royal Lake on the Singuttara Hill this complex is 114 acres of spiritual vibes
and impressive structures. This is by
far the most sacred and ornate Buddhist site for the people of Myanmar. I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Chiang
Mai, the spiritual center for neighboring Thailand, but this area is far
grander in scale. Starting off at over 8
meters the Shwedagon Pagoda has survived natural disasters, changes in
leadership, and foreign invaders and now stands over 99 meters and filled with
more precious stones and gold than a jewelry market.
The Shwedagon
Pagoda complex is open from 4am-10pm daily and the entrance fee is 8,000 Kyats. There are multiple entrances inside this
complex and it just depends on how scenic you want the route to be. You can take any of the 4 massive stairways
called zaungdan to the top. They are
filled with various stalls selling religious paraphernalia, candles, incense,
Buddhas, gold leafs, and regular souvenirs.
If you have a physical disability they also have elevators for
accessibility also (located in the southern entrance). There are strict dress codes since it’s a
religious complex. Shorts must cover the
knees and miniskirts or shirts/blouses that show too much skin must be covered
up. They will provide outer clothing if
needed.
I entered
through the north and south and the first thing I noticed was the famous
Mahabodhi Tree. This tree was grown from
a cutting of the tree under which the Buddha sat and found enlightenment. I arrived late in the afternoon and it was
still crowded and busy. The only way to
describe the place was the first time being in Las Vegas and seeing all the
lights and ornate structures with each trying to outdo the one next to it. The Middle Terrace is the area where you see
most of the decorated shrines, stupas, pavilions, and statues. It’s an amazing site to see and sensory
overload is expected.
The design of
the Middle Terrace is to get you to walk in a clockwise manner that replicates
the movement of the heavens. There is a
planetary post corresponding to the day of your birth. In Burmese astrology, there are eight days in
total with Wednesday being divided into morning and evening. Each day is linked with a different animal: a
winged griffin for Sunday, a tiger for Monday, a lion for Tuesday, a tusked
elephant for Wednesday morning, a tuskless elephant for Wednesday evening, a
mouse for Thursday, a guinea pig for Friday, and finally a mythical snakelike
dragon for Saturday. The larger statues
located behind the various planetary posts are the guardian spirits called
nats.
The area that
attracts the most attention is called the Wish Fulfilling Place. This is located in the northwestern area and
the devout come here to say a prayer and meditate. The devout kneel towards the direction of The
Great Stupa and I saw hundreds when I walked by here. The mood was calm and everyone was at ease here.
The main
attraction that cannot be missed is the Great Stupa itself. Standing at 99 meters or 325 feet this
magnificent structure is believed to be 2,500 years old and holds precious
relics and the reason why so many Buddhists make a pilgrimage here. Surviving natural disasters and colonial rule
the Great Stupa is covered with gold leaf on the base and the banana bud at the
top is covered with 13,000+ solid gold plates.
Surrounding the Great Stupa is 64 mini pagodas. The entrance into the upper terraces is
strictly forbidden to the public and only monks can enter this area. This area has also served as a rallying point
for political reform in Myanmar. Aung
San Suu Kyi, the face for Myanmar’s pro-democracy struggle addressed a large
crowd here in the late 1980s and in 2007 the Great Stupa was occupied by
protesting monks during their Saffron Revolution.
The Great Stupa
has ten unique sections to it. It has a
base, three terraces called “Pyisayan”, the “Khaung Laung” due to its bell
shape, the “Baung Yit” with the distinct embossed bands, the “Thabeik” or
Monk’s Food Bowl, the “Kya-lan” an ornamental lotus flower, the “Hngnet
Pyaw-Bu” banana bud, the “Hti” the umbrella, the “Hngetmana” the flag shaped
vane which revolves around the direction of the wind, and finally the “Seinbu”
diamond bud. The “Hti” and “Hngetmana”,
and the “Seinbu” are decorated with 3,154 gold bells, 79, 569 diamonds and
other precious stones.
As nightfall was coming I noticed many volunteers were getting candles and incense ready at the tables surrounding the base of the Great Stupa. I didn’t stick around to see it lit since it was dinnertime and I was getting hungry. I later returned right when the complex opened at 4am because I knew there would no be large crowds getting in the way of the magnificent structures here. If you have the chance, I completely recommend seeing this place at both times because the atmosphere is so different when there are minimal people there. In the early morning I was able to see and hear monks reciting their prayers more easily than during the day.
I have to say
there is a profound reason why this place is so revered by the Myanmar people
as well why this is one of the holiest sites to the Buddhist community. It is
spiritual and sensory overload when you come and visit this historic
complex. The attention to detail on the
statues and structures is eye popping and the overall spiritual vibe is
indescribable. You don’t even have to be
a Buddhist to appreciate the atmosphere here.
Be sure to visit this amazing place and leave a small donation too.
Happy
traveling.
