Vardavar: The Armenian Water Festival

Quite possibly one of the most entertaining holidays I’ve ever experienced is in Armenia and it takes place approximately 14 weeks after Easter. It’s called Vardavar and this holiday can be traced back to its pagan roots but has been adopted by Christianity. Vardavar can be associated with the goddess Astghik, who was the goddess of water, beauty, love, and fertility. It’s a holiday that is celebrated near harvest time and the way to celebrate is very simple.

Luckily, Vardavar takes place in the summer heat but you just get a bucket and fill it up with water and douse anyone who gets near you! Young, old, male, female, pedestrian, driving a vehicle, on a bus, you are a target and no mercy is shone. I can only describe Vardavar in movie genres, as it is a cross between The Hunger Games and The Purge. Usually, this holiday is most popular with the youth and groups and alliances are formed to target people strolling by. These alliances are short lived because once they hit their target they usually turn on each other.

I live in the city of Gyumri, Armenia’s second largest city, and when I found out about Vardavar I decided to celebrate it at my neighboring PCV’s village because I knew the small village culture take these types of holidays more seriously than big city folk. So I went with my two site mates, Sarah and Renata, to Sarrnaghbyur village where my classmate Nick is assigned. A small village of a population of roughly 3,000 it is surrounded by many hills. We begin the day by meeting Nick at the bus stop and he takes us back to his place so we can meet his host family and change our clothes.

As soon as we step out of Nick’s house and on to the road we are immediately ambushed. Luckily, it’s just a few small kids and we escape unscathed. Since this is also a religious holiday its also customary to stop by a church and give a quick prayer. On the main road there we can see cars getting splashed by groups of children and we know what we are in store since we are on foot. I also noticed that there are people who drive and splash unsuspecting pedestrians too! Along the way to church we encounter a large group of kids and we get drenched. As long as you have it within your mind that you are going to get drenched and kindly welcome it you won’t be targeted as much. Nick and I just stood there with arms open and the “come and get me” attitude and were hardly touched. My site mate’s reaction of not wanting to get splashed only encouraged the children to target them. One observation I saw and felt was that the kids weren’t just launching the water at us, they were sort of cupping the bucket so that it would have a whiplash affect on us when the water made contact with us. This isn’t always the most hygienic of holidays too since most of the water was coming from the gutter so make sure you dress appropriately when going outside.

This is such a fun holiday because it has all the mischief of Halloween and a way for young children to be on the same playing field with adults. If you’re thinking of having a summer vacation in Armenia try to plan it around Vardavar. No matter what your age, you’ll feel like a kid again. Happy travels.