One of the
interesting sites to explore and admire is the Htilominlo Temple. This very large 3 story brick structure was
built in 1218 and stands at 46 meters.
It was named after its builder, King Htilominlo who is also referred to
as Zeya Theinkha and Nadaungmyar. Filled
with complex roofs, ornate décor, and a large corncob tower, it’s easy to spot
from afar.
The legend of
how Htilominlo was chosen as king is quite interesting. Out of the five sons of King Narapatisithu,
he was selected. The legend stated that
the five sons stood in a circle with a white umbrella in the middle. Whichever direction the umbrella leaned
towards, that son would become the next King!
It’s also believed that the Htilominlo complex was built on the spot
where he was selected.
The inside of
the temple are expectedly filled with small Buddha images everywhere
possible. Unfortunately, the second
floor has been closed to the public so views from the top are just not
possible. There are also a number of
spectacular murals and frescoes but have been worn down by the sun and
time. There are plenty of vendors
selling souvenirs as well as items to be left as offerings.
Another highlight
that’s worth visiting is the Thatbyinnyu Temple. It’s the tallest in Bagan at 61 meters (210
feet) and can easily be seen from far away.
The name Thatbyinnyu translates as “omniscience” and when it was
constructed it was the first to adopt the two story “hollow” (gu) style. Constructed in 1144, this brick structure is
coated with stucco and its white color also makes it noticeable from the
distance.
The four sides
of the Thatbyinnyu Temple have an arched entrance hall protruding from the main
structure. The portico on the eastern
side, which serves as the main entrance is quite longer than the other three,
which breaks the symmetry of the temple.
The large corridors enshrine a significant number of Buddha images
placed in pedestals in receding arches in the walls. There are also a number of Nat (spirits)
statues here that predate Buddhist times too.
Unfortunately, despite being two stories, access to the upper story is
not permitted to prevent degradation of this ancient temple.
One of the best
pagodas to visit in the Bagan Archaeological Zone has to be the Shwesandaw
Pagoda for the mere fact that it’s one of the oldest and it’s one of the few
monuments that visitors are permitted to climb to the upper terraces! Built by King Anawrahta, founder of the Bagan
Kingdom in 1057 the huge zedi was one of four that Bagan’s founding father
constructed outside the city walls to provide divine protection for the new
capital. The Shwesandaw Pagoda stands at
over 328 feet and is comprised of five square terraces topped by a new
cylindrical stupa with a hti (finial).
The 1975 earthquake toppled the old one and still lies where it
fell.
I got here by
horse cart and was able to just enjoy the surroundings and just look in awe at
the dozens of stupas, temples, and pagodas all over the place. The horse cart ride was timed in order to
make it to the Shwesandaw Pagoda just before sunset. Since this is one of the few places you’re
able to climb up on it naturally is a tourist trap so expect the large crowds
of spectators trying to get a good view of the plain. I’d suggest going really early if you want as
little as people in your photo.
Otherwise, expect a madhouse of foot traffic attempting to use the
stairs.
The cultural
significance of this pagoda can be explained by a hair relic of the Buddha that
the king of Bago presented to Anawrahta for his assistance in fighting back a
Khmer invasion of the Mon Kingdom and is believed to be stashed inside the
stupa. There are four staircases for you
to choose from but keep in mind they are steep.
From the upper terraces you’ll be able to see across the horizon and get
great panoramic view of the plain. I
went here in the afternoon to catch the sunset and returned earlier in the
morning when there were less people.
The corners of
the Shwesandaw Pagoda’s five terraces were adorned with statues of Ganesha, the
Hindu God with an elephant head, in Burma known as Maha Peinne. There are still many surviving signs of pre
Buddhist influence in many of Bagan’s structures.
It’s impossible
to describe how amazing this place is and what to see because there are over
2,000 temples, stupas, and pagodas to choose from. These are just a small example of the many
highlights the Bagan Archaelogical Zone has to offer. Go with a local guide part of the time and
then go off and explore on your own!
Happy
traveling.
