If you are traveling in northern Armenia and in the Lori region then you’ll most likely see the two major sites, Haghpat Monastery and Sanahin Monastery. However, there is a third one just about 15 minutes away that is completely worth visiting and its called Akhtala fortress. Inside the crumbling fortress walls lays the ruins of a monastery and one of the most well preserved church that was built in the 10th century. These three sites played a major role in protecting the north. Akhtala Monastery is also known as Pghindzavank which translates as Coppermine Monastery due to the nearby mining industry. The only difference with this church is that there is Georgian Orthodox influence here. This area was also built over Bronze and Iron Age foundations just to give you an idea of how ancient this settlement is.
I visited during the end of summer so the weather was fantastic. Once I got past the entrance gate I immediately made a left turn to explore the main tower. A shell of its former glory you can see how it would of looked based upon the remaining structure. You are free to climb around the structure all you want but be careful since there are numerous spots that you can fall through. There are many nearby rooms worth checking out too. If you’re in good shape and don’t mind going through tiny entrances then just go for it. A few feet away you’ll come to the ruins of the main monastery complex. Nature has pretty much taken over this area as there is no roof and the plants have taken over the ground floor. However, it gives you an idea how big and bustling this area was back in its heyday. There’s only one entrance to enter the complex and it’s a great spot to take pictures.
Located near
some spectacular scenery, Akthala Fortress sits on top a hill overlooking the
valley. The fortifications are visible
from afar as well as the main church, Surb Astvatsatsin or Holy Mother of
God. A serpentine road takes you past a
tiny village and past the mining sites and eventually you’ll see the large
tower and fortress entrance gate. The
admission is free however you can give donations inside the church.
Next to the
monastery ruins is the main church. This
beautifully and well-preserved structure is truly amazing in design. Take the moment to walk around the entire
structure and near the edge of the top to appreciate it from various
perspectives. You also get great views
of the valley from the there too. The
inside is a sight to remember since it is so well preserved. The murals are what stand out and here you’ll
see some of the best examples of Byzantine artwork outside the traditional
lines of the Byzantium Empire. Most of
the murals were painted under the patronage of Ivane Zakarian between 1205 and
1216. I don’t have a religious
background so I couldn’t tell you who all the famous religious images are but
they seem quite significant. Pay close
attention to the tombstones on the ground and you can see some of them are
written in Georgian. Every wall is
filled with frescoes and the quality cannot be emphasized.
The Akhtala
complex is a hidden gem and definitely worth visiting since its so close to the
two nearby World Heritage Sites. The
drive to this area is spectacular and rich with history and culture. A hotel was being renovated next to the
complex so it may be worth to spend the night to explore the surrounding areas
on foot.
Happy traveling.
