One of the more interesting holidays I’ve had to experience while living in Armenia is something called Terendez. It’s a religious holiday that dates back to Armenia’s pagan times and is held 40 days after the birth of Christ. The ceremony involves lighting a bonfire with the fire representing purification, the coming of Spring, better climate, fertility, and the blessing of newlyweds.
The celebration can be held privately in front of people’s homes or on holy grounds of the church. I just happened to know that the Armenian Apostolic Church in my city of Gyumri was going to have a large ceremony in the center of town. Luckily for me, that I am assigned to an organization that is financed by the local diocese so I got a heads up of the time it would occur from my colleagues. I arrived a little early to the ceremony and saw my colleagues setting up the bonfire. There were many children also performing traditional Armenian dances around the bonfire.
Moments later the Bishop with the other priests and deacons arrived to perform the religious ceremony. The Bishop and priests spoke for about 20 minutes and moved around the ceremony to speak in every direction. While they were performing the ritual I noticed that people were placing items on the bonfire to be blessed by the priests and then burnt. I also noticed that many of the faithful were holding unlit candles too. After the Bishop and priests had said their words the Bishop lit the torch. The interesting thing to observe here is that one of the priests was holding a special candle lantern. This candle lantern was delivered earlier in the day from the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church worldwide. It’s the Vatican equivalent. The blessed flame was then used to light the bonfire. Since I was in the front row taking pictures I could feel the heat instantly when it was lit since fuel was used to accelerate the burning.
After a few minutes when the heat and fire began to subside the faithful then began to light their candles with the blessed flame. If you notice closely on some of the pictures, the faithful have cut plastic bottles over their candles and that’s designed to prevent the wind from blowing it out when they are walking home. The faithful then light other candles in their home with the blessed flame. Afterwards, many of the children began to perform their traditional Armenian dancing around the bonfire.
The custom is once the flames settle down to a reasonable level a newlywed couple will jump over the flames three times and symbolically purify themselves. Brides will often intentionally try to leave a burn mark on her wedding gown as evidence of participating in Terendez. I also observed some of the faithful taking ashes from the bonfire. The faithful believe that if you are in poor health or trying to become pregnant you need only to put some of the blessed ashes in your drink and you will be healed or become pregnant! Sometimes the blessed ash is also spread out over the fields or placed inside the ovens (called tonir in Armenian) used to make lavash (Armenian flat bread). Children will also jump over the flames after the newlyweds.
There were no newlywed couples in the crowd that day so I didn’t get a chance to photograph it. Since it was really cold that day I didn’t stick around to photograph the children jumping over the flames because they were too busy dancing. The next day however I did photograph the children from the kindergarten at my organization jump over the flames. The children were introduced to the history of Terendez and finished by getting a chance to jump over the flames with the help of the teacher and volunteers.
Overall, it was quite an interesting ceremony to witness. If you happen to be visiting in Armenia in February make sure you mark your calendar to witness this piece of culture. It can be see informally in front of people’s homes or done formally by any of the Apostolic Churches in Armenia.
Happy Traveling.